Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Surfing: It Is Supposed To Encourage Exploration

By Damian Papworth

When I hit the beach to surf I usually head down to Mermaid Beach. Though the waves are not among the best of the Gold Coast's offerings, I choose this spot because of the ability to dodge the swelling crowds. Crowds and surfing: they've got a funny relationship. No serious surfer out there will tell you that they enjoy surfing in a tightly packed spot, yet nonetheless we all tend to exacerbate the matter by obeying certain sheep-like behavior (i.e. the "follow the pack" mentality).

On the average day, Mermaid Beach has three or four peaks, though only one will be taken advantage of and by a big, poorly distributed mob. When I get there, instead of jumping in right away and paddling out, I take a moment to ponder the scene and choose my spot wisely. Ultimately, my decision will be shaped by the quality of the waves rolling in and the amount of surfers in a given area of water. Personally, I am always willing to give up a bit of wave quality to be able to have plenty of room, though that's just me.

It's common for me to walk up to a kilometer in either direction to pick out a wave. After my deliberative process and having installed myself in a given spot however, there's always some surfer that breaks from the pack and comes to park right on my shoulder. I am always bewildered that the person didn't take that initiative earlier, before my arrival, given the fact that that break had been there all day. In the end, I figure it's nothing more than a lack of imagination on the other's behalf, remaining oblivious until someone else (myself in this case) points the small detail out to them.

It never ceases to amaze me how many surfers arrive at the beach yet make no effort to seek out the best wave. Instead, they merely paddle up to the spot where all the other surfers are, automatically assuming that that's where the ideal conditions are.

I've had days when I was the only person in the water, with peaks forming all up and down the beach, yet an additional surfer will come and sit on my shoulder. On these occasions, I just paddle to the next wave and continued my session there, wondering at the other person's intelligence all the way.

But witnessing this kind of behavior day in day out begs the question; What happened to the spirit of exploration in surfing? Where did it go? When was it replaced by such sheepish behavior, where we just follow the crowd? Perhaps I am just a little different to most surfers and enjoy an uninterrupted surf. Perhaps most of us actually enjoy the hustle of a crowd. I don't know. I do think this pattern of behavior is weird though.

Some food for thought though: each time you hit the beach for some quality surf, take a minute or three on the beach to really observe the waves before paddling out. There will probably be a better option than the most crowded one and you will definitely get to catch more waves.

About the Author:

No comments: