Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Nero's Domus Aurea - An Ancient Rome Tourist Attraction Delight

By Jill Kammer


Recently Rome opened the Golden House of Nero to public viewing and it is an attraction not to be missed. It is interesting that the ruins were discovered long ago during the Renaissance but it was in the late 20th century that they were prepared to be seen by you and I.

Everybody knows that Nero fiddled while Rome burned. The Golden House of Nero was built in 64 AD after that huge disaster and it is filled with amazing finds. Nero spared no expense on himself using gold plating liberally and filling the ceiling with precious stones to honor himself. Sadly, these riches cannot be viewed if you go there. Looters had their way with the Golden House of Nero not long after the decadent ruler passed away.

Nero's opulent home actually covered a huge 350 acre grounds which boasted fine vineyards and a lake made just for him. But something unusual about this "home" of Nero's is that there were no bedrooms in any of the 300 rooms. This is not to say that during those wild orgies we know about, many didn't just fall in a stupor all around the house and grounds.

One of the most striking features of the palace at the time was the 40m (130ft) high bronze likeness Nero had done to honor himself. This amazing art work is still on display outside the Colosseum.

Time has taken its toll on the Palace of Nero, but it's still worth taking a few hours to go on the audio tour that is offered. It's a fascinating and satisfying tour and if you are in Rome in the fall, the city is friendly and the weather perfect.

A great way to take in this ancient structure is through the guided underground tour that goes lets you view the amazing paintings in the vaults and rooms. This is a rare chance to see artwork done by the famous artist Fabullus who used the Pompeii artistic style.

For us, the artist Fabullus may not be well known, but great artists such as Michelangelo and Raphael were inspired by him, and those that saw his work at the Golden House of Nero left their names etched into the walls. Names like Casanova and the Marquis de Sade can also be found there if you look for them.

You won't get bored on your tour - you will see some rooms in ruins where it's difficult to see the artwork. Then around the next corner you will be greeted by beautifully restored rooms, their walls glistening with stunning art and gold and marble ornaments as striking as when Nero admired them.

It's great to admire the many grottos in the underground rooms but when you get to the Octagon Room, that will be a memory maker. The art in this room was how Nero honoured the Greeks (he was a big fan of their work), including a wonderful statue of the Dying Gaul that is now on display at the museum at Palazzo Altemps.

But don't miss out on enjoying the great gardens and grounds during your stay. The organizers also have a replica of the Octagonal Room for you to examine which will give you a real feel for how it was to live in this amazing time in history in Nero's house.

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