Monday, November 11, 2013

Sailing From Panama To Colombia Provides An Opportunity To Visit The Kuna

By Katrina Wheeler


Panama connects two oceans and two continents. Its northern coast is washed by the Caribbean Sea which is part of the Atlantic Ocean, its southern coast is washed by the Pacific Ocean and the Panama Canal traverses the country to connect the one with the other. The country is essentially a narrow isthmus that connects North America with South America. Colombia is its immediate neighbor to the south. Hundreds of yachts visit each year to enjoy sailing from Panama to Colombia.

One favorite cruising route starts from the area around the Caribbean end of the canal and then moves south to Cartagena or Barranquilla (or both), and finally on to Santa Marta, three rival port cities in north Colombia. The journey covers 500 nautical miles or so. Because it is long trek that might take four or five days of round-the-clock sailing most yachts stagger the trip with some stops along the way.

Colon is a common departure point. This commercial port city sits at the mouth of Bahia de Manzanillo (or Limon Bay). Colon does not have docking for pleasure craft. Recreational yachts arriving from Europe or the US tie up west of the city at the modern Shelter Bay marina.

One cautionary point for yachts visiting Panama is the small number and variable quality of some local marinas. Some are poorly equipped, have limited sea draft, are mainly oriented towards serving sport fishing boats rather than cruising yachts and have fixed docks rather than floating pontoons. Fixed docks complicate berthing, particularly if the tidal range is large, because docking lines must be shortened and lengthened several times each day as the tide changes. None of these drawbacks apply to Shelter Bay.

Vessels that remain at the marina for more than a month receive the benefit of a discounted rate. The berths are designed mainly for monohulls; only a few berths are wide enough to accommodate catamarans. Bicycles are available for hire. There is tight security preventing access to the marina compound, including the docking area, by unauthorized individuals.

The San Lorenzo National Park surrounds the marina. This natural jungle area is home to amazing tropical wildlife including various monkeys and Amazon mealy parrots. Particularly noteworthy are the oropendola; these large passerine birds within the New World blackbird family have pointed bills, long tails and bright yellow coloring. Oropendola are easily spotted because they build amazing nests that hang from trees and resemble (look like) large teardrops.

After leaving Shelter Bay, many yachts head for the beautiful San Blas islands as a stopover. San Blas is a long archipelago of over 300 coral islets lying, for the most part, less than ten nautical miles off the Panama mainland. They extend along a northwest-southeast axis for about 100 nautical miles to almost reach (a point close to) Colombian waters.

The largely autonomous Kuna indigenous people govern the San Blas islands. This unique ethnic group has its ancestral roots in Colombia. The Kuna have a distinctive language, dress and mythology. They have resisted change and shunned outside influences. Somewhat paradoxically perhaps, they are commercially shrewd and considered the most successful indigenous group in Latin America. A yacht is the best way to travel around within the archipelago since modern transport infrastructure is not available. The chance to cruise within the San Blas archipelago and learn about Kuna culture and traditions is a strong reason attracting yacht owners to go sailing from Panama to Colombia.




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