Monday, January 27, 2014

Current Time In India? It's Kerala Time, My Friends!

By Mitchell Jones


There are a lot of people traveling to India these days. Some are ex-pats looking to reconnect with the homeland. Others are a vast range of tourists and adventures with a host of ideas of what would be the perfect Indian getaway. Whatever your motivation, you probably want to know where the action is. I'm here to tell you.

There's no doubt about it, if that's what you're seeking, get yourself to Kerala. The glory days of Katmandu and Goa are all behind us. You don't want to be some butt of irony. Forget about those places. Yes, Mumbai and Delhi still have their appeal, but there is a kind of crazy, intense, pressing of humanity in those cities, which isn't for everyone.

No, I say, if your goal is an India excursion which offers the best of all that country's remarkable travel opportunities, there's no doubt that, right now, the current time in India is Kerala time! Kerala is located along the south-western coast of India. It provides everything an aspiring adventurer could hope for in a memorable Indian visit.

Consider these features:

Let's start with Kochi. It's sometimes still called Cochin on older maps. But, by whatever name, the commercial center of Kerala is as happening as it is beautiful. It sits engagingly at the crossroads of some of Kerala's famous backwaters. The town spreads out over the northern end of a peninsula, several islands and the corresponding mainland. Kochi's ubiquitous ferries ply the waterways of the city's exquisite natural harbor. Personal experience allows me to testify that dolphins sometimes swim so close to the low slung ferries that you can, without exaggeration, simply reach over and pet them, right there in the water. It's a memory that has stuck with me my whole life.

The architecture of the city is pretty great, too. This is especially true in the Fort Kochi area, where a history of diverse colonization, including a century and a half under the Portuguese, has left behind a sometimes stunning and unexpected architectural legacy.

Don't get lulled into complacency by the idyllic natural and architectural beauty, though. Kochi can rock its way into your heart, too. Its thriving nightlife provides an impressive spectrum of fine restaurants, offering up culinary delights from all over India. International food options are also well represented. Following a night out for dinner, you can kick back in any of a diverse number of cafes (south Indian coffee is great!), or if looking for something more energetic, there are a good assortment of discos and pubs to party on into the wee hours.

However, if even that's too much city action for you - or you just want a change - Kerala still has you covered. There are a variety of more serene options. If you're looking to be on the move, you have to check out the Kerala backwaters. These are constituted by a large number of lagoons and lakes, connected via a web of rivers and canals. This great network of waterways runs parallel to the Kerala coast - once, more prosaically, known as the Malabar Coast.

There's just tons of stuff to do and explore in these backwaters: I'll only mention a couple options, here. I strongly recommend getting to Alappuzha (still sometime called Alleppey). It is the central town of the backwaters and once was a major trading post. It is still a beautiful and vibrant spot to visit. Among its charms are the many canals that run through the town, earning it the nickname of Venice of the East.

Another popular choice in the backwaters is to spend time on the kettuvallams, or Kerala houseboats. There are more than 2000 of these kettuvallams plying the backwaters. Historically grain barges, they have been converted into a kind of floating cottage, which has proven popular with tourists. They are equipped with thatched roofs over sleeping quarters; provide inboard toilets, out deck sitting areas and Kerala-style meals prepared by the crew. This is a trip you won't soon forget.

But, if even that's too much action for you, and all you really want to do is lounge on a beach and sip a refreshing drink, while soaking in the sun and the sound of the waves, Kerala has you covered still. Indeed, there are plenty of spots for this, but we'll tell you about just one absolute gem that you must see. Varkala is a chill-out heaven. But, despite its laid back paradise profile, unlike most other such spots along the Malabar Coast, it has not been overrun by Western hippies and rave kids.

Here you'll find that dream tropical coastline, with the perfect beach, just as you imagined it. Plus, you get the bonus of the geologically distinctive cliffs of the area. The seaside village of Varkala spreads out over these cliffs, in a series of small shops, over a kilometer in distance. Varkala is truly a delight to the palate, the senses and the spirit. It's got to be seen to be believed. (To get some fleeting sense of the delights, check out the video at our post: The Current Time in India is Varkala Time!)

And, if you're such a hard sell that even paradise itself isn't enough to move you, Varkala offers the additional perk of a 2000 year old temple, which is an important Vaishnavaite shrine. It is too a hotbed of Ayurvedic medicine. Heck, it even has an Ayurvedic hospital. What more could you want?

If you're already fantasizing about it, Kerala is easy to reach. International flights come into both Kochi and the Kerala capital city of Thiruvananthapuram (about 32 miles, or 50km from Varkala). However, if you can afford the time, I'd recommended making even more of an adventure out of your holiday. Instead, fly into the even better served Mumbai airport. After the necessary trip to visit Bollywood, you can book passage on the wonderful Konkan railway, which will carry you down the west coast. When I first traveled through India, back in the 1970s, this railway didn't exist. It has been a huge boon to Indian travel since its opening in 1998.

Whatever you choose, the Konkan adventure or flight right into Kochi, don't hesitate: get yourself to Kerala. These great locations don't last forever: their very popularity soon undoes them. So, don't miss Kerala, now, while in the full bloom of its glory. The current time in India is, indeed, Kerala time!




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